Hidden Dublin Read online

  Night of the Big Wind

  The savage storm on the ‘Night of the Big Wind’ on 6 January 1839 was one of the worst ever recorded in Ireland and it caused widespread damage. On that night, and for most of the next day, hurricane force winds created havoc throughout the country and in Dublin it was estimated that approximately one house out of every four suffered from some sort of structural damage, ranging from missing roof slates to complete demolition.

  On the night of the disaster, several Dublin churches opened their doors to hordes of Dubliners who sought refuge from the storm. Many churches were damaged including St Patrick’s Cathedral, St Matthew’s at Irishtown and Phibsborough church. The Bethesda Chapel, attached to the Lock Penitentiary and Workhouse in Dorset Street, was burned to the ground. A fire at the chapel had been extinguished on the day preceding the hurricane but the high winds rekindled the fire and by the next morning, chapel, workhouse and six adjoining houses had been reduced to cinders.

  Thousands of chimney-stacks throughout the city were demolished by the wind and many of the big houses on St Stephen’s Green and Merrion Square suffered structural damage. Many of the city’s roads were totally blocked by fallen trees.

  Malachi Horan, the Tallaght story-teller, related a tale of how the hurricane destroyed a small silk- and cloth-weaving industry on Killinarden Hill. Malachi, who described the wind as ‘God’s wrath’, said: ‘Even the mountain-men near died of the fright that was on them. Like death, the wind come to some, for the others it passed by.’ The next morning at daybreak it became apparent that all eight cottages belonging to the weavers had been devastated and they left the area on that very day and never returned.

  John O’Donovan, who was working for the ordnance survey in Wicklow at the time, was staying at a hostel in Glendalough. O’Donovan wrote that at the height of the storm, the hostel rocked ‘as if it were a ship’. During the night, the wooden shutters of his bedroom were blown in by the storm and he was forced to lie against them until the next morning to keep them closed.

  The number of deaths caused by the storm has been impossible to calculate but it has been estimated that between 300 and 400 people lost their lives. At Skerries, nine fishing boats, each with a crew of nine or ten were reported lost. Six people were killed in a fire in Mary Street and in Glasnevin a policeman perished when a wall of the Botanic Gardens fell on him. At Guinness’ brewery nine dray horses were killed when a stable wall fell on them.

  In the immediate aftermath of the storm, people sought reasons for the calamity that had been visited on them. Some religious folk were convinced that as the storm had taken place on the night of ‘Little Christmas’ or ‘Women’s Christmas’ it was a sure sign of the wrath of God and that 7 January would be the Day of Judgement. Others simply blamed the fairies for the calamity, while yet another section of the population blamed it on the Freemasons. Apparently, some Catholics were of the opinion that devil-worshipping Freemasons had summoned his satanic majesty from the nether regions and hadn’t been able to send him back again!

  Sweep School

  Of all the charitable schools ever founded in Dublin surely the ‘School for Young Sweeps’ must have been the most unusual. This Sunday school was run on the premises of Kellet’s School at Drumcondra which had been founded in 1811.

  Every Sunday morning, about forty young chimney sweeps assembled at Kellet’s where they were given breakfast and kitted out with new shoes, shirts and caps. They were also provided with bars of soap and a few pennies to tide them over during the week.

  The occupation of sweep’s helper was a dangerous trade to be involved in and the young boys involved were at the mercy of their masters. Warburton, Whitelaw and Walsh’s History of the City of Dublin, written in 1818, comments on the plight of the sweep’s boys: ‘no class of the community … has so much and so deservedly excited public commiseration as that of young sweeps, and we think the existence of such a trade is a reproach to the police of any state where it is permitted …’

  Master sweeps would recruit very young boys, (some as young as seven) as apprentices and send them up the chimney flues to brush and scrape the soot off them. As can be imagined, the occupation of sweeps-boy was a very hazardous one. There were no health or safety regulations to protect these children and among the hazards they faced on a daily basis were the possibility of suffocation from the soot, getting stuck in the chimney, falling from the chimney stacks and even of getting badly burned. There was also a very high incidence of testicular cancer amongst the ranks of the sweep boys which was believed to have been caused by the accumulation of soot.

  The school was established following a court case in which a master chimney sweep had been jailed for cruelty to his young apprentice. The master sweep was said to have whipped the boy repeatedly and burned him with coals. The child, who had to be carried into court wrapped in a blanket and covered with ointment, died shortly after the trial. The sweep was sentenced to be publicly whipped and a huge crowd gathered to witness the event.

  It was this event that led to the formation of a society for the protection of young chimney sweeps in 1816. At the first meeting chaired by the lord mayor of Dublin tales were recounted of the ill-usage of the apprentices, including several cases of murder. It also emerged that many of the young sweeps were forced by their masters to engage in night-time burglaries. Once the children grew too big to get up the chimneys, they were, apart from the lucky few that went on to become masters themselves, abandoned by the sweep-masters and left to fend for themselves.

  The school for sweeps was established with a view to providing those abandoned with a basic education in reading, writing and arithmetic. However, the school was closed after a short period after accusations by Catholic clergymen that the school was a front for the conversion of Catholic children to the Protestant faith.

  An act proposing the use of machines to clean chimneys rather than using children was proposed in 1817 but it was never passed. In Dublin it was recommended that a chimney sweeping machine invented by a man called Robinson and endorsed by the Royal Dublin Society be used in order to do away with the necessity of using chimney sweeps altogether. The machine, which used adaptable brushes, was only suitable for square- or rectangular- shaped chimneys and couldn’t be used for circular or irregular ones. It was also suggested – quite unrealistically – that Dublin Corporation should force builders to only build chimneys that would be suitable for the machines.

  The practice of using children to climb chimneys was finally ended after many years of campaigning in 1864, when the Act for the Regulation of Chimney Sweepers was passed.

  Emmet’s Grave

  Following Robert Emmet’s ill-fated rebellion in the summer of 1803 he managed to evade the clutches of the authorities, but was eventually captured on 25 August at Harold’s Cross. During his trial for treason at Green Street Court House Emmet made his famous speech from the dock, which included the often quoted lines: ‘Let them and me rest in obscurity and peace; and my tomb remain uninscribed and my memory in oblivion until other times and other men can do justice to my character. When my country takes her place among the nations of the earth, then, and not till then let my epitaph be written.’

  While today it can be argued that Ireland has indeed ‘taken her place among the nations of the earth’ in many aspects of life, it still hasn’t been possible to write Emmet’s epitaph because we don’t know where he is buried.

  Emmet was hanged and beheaded outside St Catherine’s Church in Thomas Street on 20 September 1803. Following the execution Emmet’s remains were taken to Kilmainham Gaol where it is believed that the artist, James Petrie, made a death mask from his severed head.

  Emmet’s remains were initially buried at Bully’s Acre in Kilmainham b
ut were removed soon afterwards and taken to an as yet undiscovered location. Over the years many theories have been put forward as to what happened to Emmet’s body but none of these have proved to be conclusive. At least a dozen sites have been examined in searches conducted over the last two centuries, all to no avail.

  Currently, the family vault of Dr William Trevor in St Paul’s Church in North King Street is being touted as the most likely repository for Emmet’s body. Trevor had been governor of Kilmainham Gaol while Emmet had been imprisoned there and it was thought that he was buried there to prevent the grave becoming a shrine and rallying point for Irish republicans.

  In 1903 a descendant of Emmet’s, Dr Thomas Emmet, who examined a headless skeleton in the vault, claimed that it was that of a twenty-five-year-old man, and said that he was nearly certain it was that of his ancestor. However, tests carried out in 1966 concluded that the skeleton was that of a much older person. The theory now doing the rounds is that the 1903 skeleton was moved elsewhere following Thomas Emmet’s examination and substituted with other human remains.

  St Mobhi’s graveyard in Glasnevin has also been suggested as Emmet’s last resting place. George Petrie, son of James Petrie who made Emmet’s death-mask, claimed in a letter that Emmet had been buried there at the dead of night.

  There have been numerous other suggestions in relation to possible locations of Emmet’s grave, including St Michan’s in Church Street, St Peter’s in Aungier Street (now covered by the YWCA building) and even St Catherine’s Church where Emmet was executed.

  Other theories suggest that Emmet’s remains now lie in a disused Protestant graveyard at Blennerville in County Kerry and it has also been claimed in the past that his body was buried in the grounds of John Philpot Curran’s house, The Priory in Rathfarnham.

  Even spiritualists have been enlisted on occasion to help with the search. In 1978 a Californian medium claimed to have ‘divined’ the presence of Emmet’s skull in a vault beneath St Catherine’s whilst under the influence of hypnosis. The vault which belonged to the earl of Meath was opened and a skull was discovered but it was thought to have belonged to a member of the earl’s family. Another medium later claimed that he had visualised Emmet’s skull under a house in Ringsend.

  Napper Tandy

  The name of James Napper Tandy, United Irishman and colourful Dublin character, has largely been forgotten. Today most people are familiar with Tandy’s name courtesy of the song ‘Wearing of the Green’ while his house is mentioned in the old Dublin ballad ‘The Spanish Lady’ .

  James Napper Tandy was born in the Cornmarket area of Dublin in 1740. His father John was an ironmonger and a serving member of the Holy Trinity Guild of Merchants. Very little is known about Tandy’s early life in the Cornmarket but in 1962, Dublin Corporation removed a plaque commemorating Tandy from 7 High Street before demolishing the building.

  Tandy worked in the family business of ironmongery for a time but later went into business as a land agent and rent collector. In 1760 he was admitted as a freeman to the Merchants’ Guild and in October 1788 he was elected junior master of the guild.

  He was also senior master of one of Dublin’s oldest guilds, the Guild of St Anne, which had connections with St Audoen’s Church beside Christchurch.

  Tandy was elected to the City Assembly in 1777 as a representative of the Merchant’s Guild and he served the city in this capacity for nearly eighteen years. He was active in many issues at that time including a campaign against the relocation of the Custom House from Wellington Quay to its present location. Tandy and the merchants of the city were against the proposed move on the basis that it would lead to greater expense and inconvenience to them.

  Tandy himself led a riot in opposition to the Custom House in 1781 and the architect James Gandon, described what happened when Tandy ‘followed by a numerous rabble, with adzes, saws, shovels etc. came in a body on the grounds and levelled that portion of the fence which had been thrown up adjoining the North Wall and River Liffey’.

  Tandy enlisted in the duke of Leinster’s regiment of the Dublin Volunteers in 1778 and he was given command of the artillery section. He was later given command of the Irish brigade of the Dublin Independent Volunteers. Later on, Tandy became secretary of the Dublin branch of the United Irishmen whose membership included Wolfe Tone, Thomas Russell and Oliver Bond.

  The United Irishmen were proscribed in 1792. Tandy was forced to flee to America during the following year after falling foul of the police and he continued to work for the United Irishmen there. Tandy’s movements in America were eagerly followed by the newspapers back in Ireland. A report in the Freeman’s Journal in November 1793 claimed that he had been seen in Philadelphia: ‘The presence of this poor gentleman seems extremely ominous to civic communities.’ Two months later the same newspaper reported: ‘The last accounts from citizen Tandy place him in Boston. Heaven forfend that good city from plague, pestilence and sedition.’

  Tandy came into contact with a French diplomat named Pierre Adet in America who described him as ‘an excellent republican, a man entirely devoted to France and hating England as much as he is attached to our cause’.

  Tandy went to Paris in 1797 where he managed to persuade the French to take part in an invasion of Ireland. The French made him a general and in September 1798 he landed in a French brig the Anacreon at Inis Mhic a Duirn (Rutland Island) off the coast of Donegal.

  On landing, Tandy raised an Irish flag and issued a proclamation that was optimistically dated ‘The first year of Irish Liberty’. On learning of General Humbert’s defeat Tandy withdrew and sailed for Norway. He eventually made his way to Hamburg where he was captured and extradited to face trial for treason in Ireland.

  He was sentenced to death after his trial at Lifford in Donegal but was released following the intervention of Napoleon Bonaparte. He returned to France where he was awarded a full general’s pension and he died at Bordeaux on

  24 August 1803.

  James’ Street

  Today the fame of James’ Street in Dublin is recognised worldwide on account of its association with Ireland’s best-known export for the last 240 years – Guinness. However, in terms of history, the street has much more to offer than tales of Uncle Arthur’s ‘black protestant porter’.

  There were at least fifty small breweries in the district 200 years ago, not to mention the twenty-five distilleries. At that time there were seven other breweries in James’ Street besides Guinness’ along with a half dozen distilleries. The Poddle River was still largely above ground and it was considered to be ideal for the manufacture of beer. One hundred years later many of these breweries had gone to the wall and only three – including Guinness’ – were left in James’ Street. The other two surviving breweries, Manders & Powell and the Phoenix Brewery joined forces in 1890 but had gone bust by the time the First World War started.

  A local legend concerning the Manders Brewery and Robert Emmet is recounted in a history of the area written by Martin Fitzpatrick in 1994 to celebrate the one-hundred -and-fiftieth anniversary of St James’ parish. Apparently many locals believed that the Manders Brewery ‘went into long and painful decline’ because some of the company’s barrels had been used as part of the scaffolding used in Emmet’s execution on Thomas Street in 1803.

  The Phoenix Brewery was originally owned by a man called Madder and he subsequently sold it to Daniel O’Connell junior, a son of ‘The Liberator’. Guinness eventually took over the premises of the two breweries following their closure in 1914.

  Another place of interest in James’ Street is the graveyard at the back of the Protestant church. The graveyard, which catered for all religions, was at one time one of the largest in the city and it appears to have been in use from as early as the thirteenth century. The earliest reference to a burial there was in 1495.

  It has been speculated that an earlier church, dedicated to St James of Compostella, patron saint of lepers, was situated in or around this site. It’s
not clear when this church was built but the first reference to it was in the mid-thirteenth century.

  Close to the cemetery is an ornamental fountain believed to have been built on the site of the well in 1790. Many writers have spoken about a curious tradition of carrying a corpse three times around this fountain on their way to be interred at St James’ graveyard. This practice was carried on up until the 1940s and is believed to have evolved during the Reformation period to allow time for the recital of prayers for the dead. Catholic priests were banned from performing these ceremonies in Protestant graveyards at that time. The graveyard was officially closed during the 1950s to all but those with burial rights.

  During medieval times, on 25 July, the feast day of St James was celebrated by a fair held just outside the graveyard. Although it didn’t rival the great fair at Donnybrook, St James’ Fair usually ran for about a week and attracted traders and merchants from all over Europe.

  The fair was usually accompanied by excessive drinking and carousing that sometimes led to rioting and even death. The fair was eventually banned in the 1730s, but a scaled-down version of it continued to be held outside the graveyard for many years afterwards.

  Four Courts

  The copper-topped dome of the Four Courts on the north side of the Liffey is one of the most instantly recognisable images of Dublin City, but it is not widely known that for hundreds of years the courts were held on the south bank of the river.

  The first Inn of Court was established outside the city walls on the site where Exchequer Street now stands during the reign of Edward I. Because the court was outside the walls of the city it was harder to defend and the Wicklow men attacked it and burnt it to the ground. Afterwards the four courts of the chancery, king’s bench, exchequer and common pleas were held for a period at Dublin Castle and at Carlow.